White Memorial Fountain

About the Fountain

The White Memorial Fountain, dedicated in 1892, is a late-Victorian memorial drinking fountain constructed from stone (likely granite, sandstone, or brownstone—common Connecticut materials) with possible cast iron or bronze fittings and memorial plaques. It follows the typical pillar-and-basin style of the era: a pedestal with a spout, a basin to catch water, and possibly a lower basin at ground level for animals.

Originally fed by gravity from D. Stuart Dodge's spring a mile away, it is now connected to public water and electricity utilities. The original plumbing would have been lead or iron pipe; modern upgrades likely use copper or PVC with a submersible recirculating pump and possibly an auto-fill valve.

The fountain is an outdoor, freestanding structure exposed to full New England weather in the Weatogue section of Simsbury, Connecticut (USDA hardiness zone 6a–6b).

Connecticut Climate Considerations

Connecticut's freeze-thaw cycles are the number one threat to outdoor stone fountains. Water absorbed in stone pores expands approximately 9% on freezing, causing surface flaking, loss of carved detail, and structural cracks. The state receives 25–80 inches of annual snowfall, and nor'easters create repeated daytime-thaw/nighttime-freeze cycles.

• Average first fall frost: early-to-mid October (Hartford area)
• Average last spring frost: approximately May 1
• Winterize by: October 15–31 (before first hard freeze)
• Spring startup: mid-to-late April (after last frost)

Inland Simsbury (zone 6a) is a hard-freeze climate— full winterization is mandatory. No shortcuts with heaters or partial draining.

Fall Shutdown & Winterization

Complete before the first hard freeze—ideally by late October.

Step-by-Step

1. Shut off water and power. Turn off the municipal water supply valve. Unplug the pump and any lighting.
2. Drain all water. Remove drain plugs from the basin. Use a wet/dry shop vac to extract residual water from the basin, internal piping, pump housing, and carved crevices. This is the single most important step—any water left inside will freeze and crack stone or split pipes.
3. Remove and store the pump. Disconnect the pump, pull it out, and clean off algae and debris with mild soap and water. Store it indoors in a bucket of clean water to keep rubber seals hydrated and prevent dry-rot. A basement or heated garage is ideal.
4. Clean the fountain. Scrub with a soft-bristle nylon brush, mild dish soap, and warm water. For calcium/lime scale, use a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution. Never use bleach, wire brushes, or pressure washers—these strip the stone surface and damage historic fabric.
5. Disassemble removable parts. Take off any top finials, tier bowls, decorative caps, or pump covers. Bring them indoors. Ensure everything dries thoroughly.
6. Dry thoroughly. Let surfaces air-dry. Place absorbent burlap or towels in the basin to wick away lingering moisture so it cannot freeze.
7. Apply a breathable silane/siloxane water repellent. Apply to clean, dry stone when temperatures are still above 50°F (early fall). This penetrates the stone and reduces water absorption by up to 95% while remaining 100% breathable. Do not use film-forming acrylic or "wet-look" sealers—they trap moisture and accelerate freeze-thaw spalling.
8. Cover with a breathable, waterproof fountain cover. Use a heavy-duty multi-layer breathable fabric cover (e.g., Tyvek-based), not black plastic. The cover should drape loosely to the ground and be secured with nylon drawstrings (never bare metal wire, which scratches stone). A loose fit allows ventilation and prevents condensation buildup.
9. Elevate the base. Ensure the fountain base sits on pavers, gravel, or composite shims 1–2 inches above ground level to allow airflow and drainage. Soil acts as a sponge; direct ground contact wicks moisture into the stone and causes freeze-thaw heaving.
10. Do NOT use antifreeze. It is harmful to stone, the environment, and municipal water systems. Fountain heaters/de-icers are unreliable for stone fountains in hard-freeze climates.
11. Periodic winter checks. After snowstorms, verify the cover is secure, no snow or ice has accumulated, and no water has pooled underneath.

Spring Startup

Plan for startup after the last frost—typically mid-to-late April.

Step-by-Step

1. Remove the cover slowly. Clear away leaves and debris around the base first so nothing falls into the basin. Inspect the cover for wear; replace if degraded.
2. Inspect closely. Run your hand along basin edges, spillways, and tiers looking for hairline cracks, chips, or surface changes from winter. Photograph any damage for insurance or repair quotes. Check mortar joints for deterioration.
3. Clean the basin. Rinse with fresh water. For stubborn buildup, use a soft brush with diluted white vinegar. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Test the pump before installation. Submerge it in a bucket of water and run it to confirm it works. Replace if faulty.
5. Reinstall the pump. Rinse the pump housing and intake screen. Reconnect tubing to the fountain spout. Replace rubber stoppers (#7 or #10) if they are several years old—they degrade and cause leaks.
6. Fill and flush. Fill the basin, run the pump briefly, then drain once to flush dust and residue from tubing. Refill with clean water.
7. Watch the first flow. Bleed air pockets (normal for the first few minutes). Check for even water flow. Re-level the base if it has shifted over winter. Confirm the water level keeps the pump fully submerged.
8. Add water treatment. Add an algaecide/water clarifier (e.g., Fountain Fresh, Fountec) to keep water clean and prevent algae growth through the season.
9. Optional: re-apply sealer. Every 1–3 years, reapply the silane/siloxane water repellent to the stone in dry weather above 50°F.
10. Turn on municipal water supply. Open the supply valve and check for leaks at all connections. If the fountain has an auto-fill valve, verify it is functioning.

Tools You'll Need

Materials & Recurring Costs

Recommended Sealers for Historic Stone

For a fountain built in 1892, breathability is critical. The National Park Service Preservation Brief 1 guides that water-repellent treatments should keep liquid water out but allow vapor to escape— they should never "seal" stone with a film.

Apply to clean, dry stone above 40–50°F with a pump-up sprayer (saturate to runoff) or brush. Two coats, wet-on-wet. Always test on an inconspicuous area first on historic fabric.

Professional vs. DIY Cost Comparison

DIY is very feasible for routine seasonal care and saves significantly. However, for a 130+ year old historic stone fountain, hire a historic masonry conservator every 3–5 years to assess the stone condition, check for structural issues, and advise on any needed lime-mortar repointing or repair. This is consistent with the Simsbury Historical Society's stated annual operating cost exceeding $6,000, which likely includes utilities, landscaping, insurance, and periodic professional restoration work.

Historic Fountain Preservation Notes

• Use breathable, non-film-forming treatments only. Water-repellent coatings should keep liquid water out but allow vapor to escape. Never use film-forming acrylic/urethane "sealers" on historic stone.
• Avoid abrasive cleaning. No sandblasting, wire brushing, or high-pressure washing. Use the gentlest methods: low-pressure water, soft brushes, mild detergents.
• Lime-based repairs. For repointing or patching, use natural hydraulic lime (NHL) or lime putty mortars matching the original—not modern Portland cement, which is too hard and traps moisture.
• Document condition photographically each year. Engage a historic masonry conservator for periodic assessment.
• Reversibility principle. Any intervention should be reversible where possible. Avoid permanent coatings that cannot be removed.